December 17th & 18th 2023

Sunday 17th

It's Sunday, so as usual I'm visiting a tourist spot to maximize my chances of getting in the noisy crowd, with as many cars as possible on the way. I assure you I'm not doing this on purpose ! So this morning, I visit the pretty town of Taormina, sit on a balcony overlooking the sea. For the serioholics among you, this is where the plot of the second season of "The White Lotus" takes place... It's pretty, but overloaded with Christmas decorations, shops and visitors. So I decide to climb a bit more to be able to admire the place with more clearance, and in tranquility.

One thing has clearly changed since I arrived in Sicily. There are flowers everywhere, brightly colored and sometimes in vast expanses. They contrast with the charcoal-grey volcanic sand of the roadside and the low basalt walls.

I climb towards Zafferana Etnea among the lemon trees and pick a few to improve the water in my bottle. As well as oranges to give me a bit of energy, and for tomorrow's breakfast. I'm greeted at the B&B by the energetic Marco and his permanent smile. He confirms the feasibility of the loop I want to do the next day to climb as high as possible on Etna by bike. And the likelihood of sunshine. Can't wait for tomorrow !

Monday 18th

When I wake up and look out of the window, it's grayish gray in the village. The weather doesn't look as clear as expected... I get ready for my ride all the same, but when I step outside, I see a roof of dense clouds sinking into the forest some 200m higher up. I hesitate, then go for it anyway. We'll see and I'll take what there is to take. The climb takes place in thick fog and a misty atmosphere. From time to time, I cross cooled lava flows, made of flayed silhouettes of black basalt covered here and there with lichens and mosses, floating in the clouds. My sweater is covered in moisture and it's not warm.

After about 700m of ascent, I catch a glimpse of the sun through the clouds. Yes, it was worth the try, and I soon emerge under a blue sky with the summit in my sights 2000m higher up. It's a thing of beauty, and I even shout my delight at this impressive sight. I climb to exactly 1932 metres, far surpassing the maximum altitude of 1457 metres I'd reached on my second day at Col des Mosses... And of course, there's snow !!!

I spend a while admiring the lava fields and the play of light on the surrounding area as the clouds roll in. They soon obscure the top and the summit, which I won't see again. But my timing was perfect, as I was able to see the whole panorama as soon as I arrived. I make my way back down on a winding road zigzagging over an immense lava field, and then to my room :-). I'm going to sleep like a baby and dream of Mount Etna !

Paparone to Adrano